A knitting pattern that I devised – to create a mini Sackboy toy, based on a larger version that was floating around on the internet.
Materials and notes
Chunky wool for 4mm needles or double knit for 3mm needles.
Chunky wool and 4mm needles produce a figure approx 16cm tall. Double knit produces one 10cm tall.
You may need up to four needles if you find working the mouth difficult.
4inch zip (optional)
2 small buttons (preferably black with shanks on back) or press-studs for eyes. Alternatively you may use small circles of felt (10mm approx diameter)
Contrasting yarn for decoration stitches.
All cast ons are done with cable (two needle).
Increase stitches follow direction of knitting for that row and are twisted increases (right needle lifting from back for knitwise and front for purlwise).
Bear in mind this makes working rather tight in places, particularly on purl rows since there are sometimes no plain rows between increase rows.
kx – knit x stitches
px – purl x stitches
incx – increase x stitches (k1 or p1 then increase by lifting and twisting stitch after)
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
p2tog – purl 2 stitches together
Numbers in brackets e.g. (10) shows how many stitches you should have at the end of the row.
Head – make one
May require two additional short needles if working is tight with just two.
If you wish you could always change wool to black just for the mouth pocket to colour the inside, this is only useful if you don’t tack down the mouth pocket.
Cast on 6 stitches neck edge
1st inc – inc1, inc1, k1 to end (10)
2nd inc – inc, p1 to end (15)
3rd inc – k1, inc1, k1 to end (20)
4th inc – p1, inc1, p2 to end (25)
5th inc – k2, inc1, k2 to end (30)
mouth pocket – p10, p10 turn and work on these in stst for 8 rows. (10)
on 8th row purl to end. (30)
If using four needles – since it may be difficult without them:
p10 off first needle (left) onto second (right) needle as normal, p10 onto third needle,
turn and with 4th needle work on these in st.st for 8 rows. (10 st)
on 8th row, purl onto the second needle (holds the original right hand 10 stitches purl side) then continue to purl the remaining 10 off the first needle. (30st)
6th inc – k2, inc1, k3 to end (35)
stst 3 rows
1st dec – k5, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k9, k2tog, k5 (32)
2nd dec – k5, k2tog, k18, k2tog, k5 (30)
3rd dec – k5, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k5 (27)
4th dec – k5, k2tog, k13, k2tog, k5 (25)
top of head:
5th dec – (p2, p2tog, p1) to end (20)
6th dec – (k2tog, k2) to end (15)
7th dec – (p1, p2tog) to end (10)
8th dec – k2tog to end, break yarn and draw through (5) end off.
Body – make one
Cast on 6 stitches – base edge
1st inc – (p1, inc1) twice, inc1, p1 (9)
2nd inc – (k1, inc1) twice, k3, inc1, k1 (12)
3rd inc – (p1, inc1) twice, p6, inc1, p1 (15)
Stst 6 rows (k, p, k, p, k, p)
1st dec – k2, k2tog, k1 to end (12)
2nd dec – p1, p2tog, p1 to end (9)
3rd dec – k1, k2tog to end (6)
4th dec – p2, p2tog, p2 (5)
Cast off neck edge
Legs – make two
Cast on 4 stitches for base edge
1st inc – inc every stitch to end purlwise (8)
2nd inc – (inc1, k1) to end (12)
1st dec – (k1, k2tog) to end (8)
Stst 5 rows (p, k, p, k, p)
2nd dec – k2tog to end (4)
Break yarn, draw through tight and end off leaving a couple of inches for later sewing.
Arms – make two
Cast on 3 stitches for base edge
1st inc – knitwise inc every stitch to end (6)
Stst 6 rows (p, k, p, k, p, k)
cast on two at beginning and purl row (8)
cast on two at beginning, knit row (10)
cast off two at beginning, purl row (8)
cast off two at beginning, knit row (6)
Knit row – optional, if you want to have longer hands
On the left, a double knit version, on the right the chunky wool version – with soft eyes and stiching in place of a zip.
Fold pocket inward (knit side goes inwards) and stitch sides together to form mouth.
Fold the mouth flap downwards and tack the middle to the inside of the neck with a few stitches to form a slight smile if you wish.
Stitch the back of the head together, making sure to keep the rows level. Leave enough room to insert stuffing.
If using press-studs or buttons for eyes, put those on before sewing the head up completely.
Fold in half and stitch down side to create arm.
For one arm, fold fingers (tab below thumb) over and sew into palm to form fist. Fold opposite side for other arm.
You may wish to put a small amount of stuffing in the arms, though in my opinion they are thick enough if using chunky wool and 4mm needles.
Start sewing from the top (using the loose yarn that you drew through the top stitches) and leave enough gap to stuff them.
Once stuffed, finish sewing together.
Either sew the body together (you may need to tuck the neck end down in to make it more rounded) or attach a zip in the front. If using a zip, it will be much longer than needed, so roll up the excess to act as partial stuffing for the body. It will be quite difficult – you may need to sew it without pinning due to lack of space.
I use most of the loose yarn from the ends for sewing the parts together. Later using the other yarn for whipping stitches to highlight.
Sew the arms onto the body just either side of the neck.
Sew the legs onto the body a little up from the base so that they are attached more at the sides rather than on the ends of the legs and bottom of body.
Sew the head onto the neck.
Slightly crease the top of the head at the 5th decrease row and stitch around the top with bold whipping stitches. It helps to pinch or crease the top of the head whilst sewing to accentuate the flat top. Stitch down either side of the head to the neck also.
Similar stitches go down the inside of the arm to the wrist and all around the wrist to imply a join for the hands.
Whipping stitches also go down the sides of the body and down the inside leg (but not around the base of the leg).
You may like to oversew numerous times to indicate a zip if you don’t wish to fit a zip in the body.
You can also put whipping stitches to indicate where the arms, legs and head are sewn onto the body.